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A permanent, high temperature refractory cement for all types of firebrick kilns. Thin the cement with water and replace broken brick sections, repair holes and cracks or apply as dust-free coating on inner lid. Instructions included.

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Product Questions and Answers

Will this product repair kill walls that have spilled glaze on them?

- Asked by Marsha on 13-Jun-14

Remove pieces of elements or bricks that have fired glaze on them. This cement may be used to replace damaged areas or holes created after removing the glazed portion.

- Answered by MisterArt on 16-Jun-14

Can I use this product to repair bricks on the kiln lid?

- Asked by Nance' on 23-Feb-14

Yes, this product may be applied to repair bricks in the kiln lid, kiln floor, and elements in the kiln walls. It is mainly used to reattach small pieces or fill in cracks.

- Answered by MisterArt on 27-Feb-14

What color is the cement?

- Asked by Pamela B. on 05-Feb-14

The cement is light-grey.

- Answered by MisterArt on 10-Feb-14

How does this cure? Is it by heat or air?.

- Asked by Gilbert D. on 16-Jun-13

This cement just air-dries.

- Answered by MisterArt on 17-Jun-13

I have a ceramic Kamado cooker with a plate setter for indirect cooking that can reach up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit. The ceramic plate setter is broken. Can this product be used to cement the pieces together?

- Asked by anthony kennedy on 04-Jan-13

The Kiln Coat & Repair Cement is suggested for use on firebrick kilns only.

- Answered by MisterArt on 04-Jan-13

My kiln lid needs repair, but it is not made of kiln brick, but a lighter weight material. Will this work?

- Asked by Wilson Bowen on 14-Nov-12

This product will only work on firebrick kilns.

- Answered by MisterArt on 15-Nov-12

Ask a Question About Kiln Coat & Repair Cement

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Customer Product Reviews

Rated by: Lynn in Nashville, Tn
Was new to this kind of repair, but this cement worked as advertised. Great stuff
Rated by: Chris J. in Davis, CA
My project was a complete replacement of the bricks in the lid of a large electric kiln. Since the old bricks were brittle, I bought new ones from bargainmarge on ebay. What I had read about this repair cement made it sound like just what I was looking for, and the price is excellent, so I bought three pounds. Most of the work was sawing, filing and sanding the brick to fit the lid. I tried to arrange the bricks to minimize the length of straight seam that might break later. Underneath the bricks were sheets of particle board that resembled compressed vermiculite, and the bricks were cemented to these as well as each other for added strength, since they would be hanging from these boards. I mixed the repair cement according to the directions and it was easy to work with. Having the cement harden in the mixing tray was not a problem. However, rubbing the bricks together to penetrate the pores with the cement (according to the directions) was not an extensive process like I thought it would be - after only a couple seconds the bricks became too hard to move, either because the coated area on both surfaces became large or because the dry brick thickened the cement. In both the brick-shaping and cementing processes, I had to be very careful what order I added bricks to the lid to prevent painting myself into a corner! This is because the lid had a lip that the bricks slide under, so a corner brick can't be slid vertically in. Once all the bricks were in place I deviated from the directions in preparing a thinner cement that I poured into some gaps - mistakes from cutting the bricks - but this seemed to go well. I then used the kiln coat instructions to apply a layer of the cement to the new lid face. After the lid had sit for a few days I timidly hefted it onto the kiln, but it was completely stable. I let the kiln sit on low for an afternoon to get remaining moisture out of the lid, which I could feel rising from the view hole. Once that subsided I fired some ceramics to cone 6, and it went fine.
Rated by: Frank T. in Brevard, NC
Instructions are well written. Drawing upon my limited masonary background, the repair to the floor of my kiln went well. All kiln wash must be removed or cement won't stick. I used wire brushes and 40 grit sand paper and vacumned thoroughly. The mixture consistency is greatly affected by the firebrick porosity. Fire bricks suck water rapidly causing the mixture to dry in a clump and make it difficult to spread. For deep holes I used the consistency of gravy, coating the entire hole, then replacing the broken brick section so the kiln floor was level. I skim coated the entire kiln floor by spreading a thin coat the consistency of coffee cream. Brushing and spreading had to be quick to get a smooth finish. After mixture sets you can smooth by using a flat wire brush then a sponge just as the masons do on stucco jobs.

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